(L-R) Deputy Consul General Adrian Cruz, Evelinda Otong-Hamja, Penn Museum’s Keeper of the Asian Collection Stephen Lang, Penn Museum’s Chief Marketing and Communications Officer Joanne Perez-Tiongson, and Vice Consul Cathe Aguilar during the turnover of the Yakan textile to the Penn Museum | Photo by Nikka Arenal/PCGNY
NEW YORK — The Philippine Consulate General in New York donated a traditional Yakan woven textile to the University of Pennsylvania Museum of Archaeology and Anthropology (Penn Museum). This textile, known as “the cloth with 70 designs” or “peneh pitumpu,” is considered the oldest Yakan design and requires expert skill to weave using 70 sticks. Historically, it was reserved for aristocrats due to its intricate design and exceptional craftsmanship.
Hapdinan Jalalun, a relative of Evelinda Otong-Hamja, a fourth-generation Yakan weaver and cultural worker from Zamboanga City, weaved the textile. She traveled from the Philippines to New York and Philadelphia to lead a public program, “Threads of Tradition: The Art of Yakan Weaving,” which included talks, weaving demonstrations, and a hands-on workshop showcasing the rich cultural heritage of Yakan weaving.
“This donation is part of our continuing efforts to promote and preserve Philippine indigenous heritage on the global stage,” said Consul General Senen T. Mangalile. “We are honored to share the artistry of Yakan woven weaving with the Penn Museum and its audiences, and we hope this encourages deeper cross-cultural understanding and scholarship.”
The Penn Museum, known for its commitment to cultural preservation, welcomed the textile as the first example of Philippine Yakan weaving in its collection. Following processing and cataloguing, the museum will publish records and images of the textile on its website, making them accessible to the public and researchers.
“We are delighted to accept this beautiful textile. As the first example of Philippine Yakan weaving in the Penn Museum’s collection, it represents a significant milestone in our efforts to fully reflect the diversity and depth of the region’s Indigenous artistic traditions,” said Stephen Lang, Keeper of the Asian Collection of the Penn Museum.
This Yakan woven textile is more than just fabric—it’s a symbol of Filipino craftsmanship and heritage. The textile embodies the deep-rooted traditions of the Yakan people of Basilan, a vibrant indigenous group in the southern Philippines.
Sharing this textile with an international institution fosters a more profound understanding and appreciation of Filipino craftsmanship. As a symbol of identity, every woven strand tells a story of resilience, artistry, and a way of life unique to the Yukan people.
According to Deputy Consul General Adrian Cruz of the Philippine Consulate General in New York, in collaboration with PTIC-NY and DOST-PTRI, the consulate has been actively promoting discussions on the creative applications of Philippine fibers across various sectors. The aim is to establish a partnership with institutions connected to the design and fashion industries to facilitate knowledge sharing and capacity building on sustainable textile innovation and cultural preservation, while promoting creative applications of Philippine fibers across diverse sectors.
To achieve this goal, the Consulate launched KATHABI: Textile Innovation Exhibit, held at the Philippine Center from June 25 to June 28, 2024. It showcased natural fibers such as abaca, pineapple, bamboo, and Philippine silk, highlighting the intersection of traditional weaving techniques and modern fashion innovation.
Designers like Anthony Legarda and Avel Bacudio presented modern fashion pieces using indigenous weaves.
Following the launch, the Consulate pursued another exhibit, HABI: Discovering Possibilities for Philippine Fibers (Philadelphia), held at Thomas Jefferson University in November 2024. The exhibit explored the intersection of tradition and innovation in Philippine textiles. It also featured discussion on cultural preservation, sustainability, and economic opportunities for local artisans.
“There is a social and cultural relevance to keep making clothing made of handwovenfabrics such as they (Yakan community) have become an element of identity for the Yakan community. The good news is that the traditional technique of handloom weaving is becoming popular again,” said Cruz in his remarks at the start of the exhibit.
He enjoined the audience “to support efforts to have more young individuals continue this practice” of learning and appreciating the importance of hand-made traditional weaving.” He said, “Not only are we preserving the weaving technique for future generations, we are also giving young Filipinos the choice to continue to be in their village and not be forced by economic circumstances to work abroad.”
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Indigenous people weavers
Filipino textiles are a vibrant reflection of the country’s diverse cultural heritage, with each indigenous group weaving unique patterns that tell stories of identity, spirituality, and tradition. Besides Yakan, some of the most significant Filipino textiles include:
- T’nalak (T’boli), a traditional textile woven by the T’boli people of Lake Sebu, South Cotabato, is made from abaca fibers and dyed using natural extracts. Patterns are believed to be passed down through dreams from ancestors.
- Inaul (Maguindanao) is a traditional Maguindanao silk fabric used in ceremonial clothing, including weddings and circumcision rituals. Yellow is associated with royalty and high status.
- Hablon (Iloilo) is a handwoven textile from Iloilo, made from cotton, abaca, and pineapple fibers.
- Binanniya (Ifugao) is a pattern resembling a lizard, symbolizing wealth and nobility. It is associated with Kadangyans (high-status people) of the Ifugao tribe.
- Malong (Maranao) is a versatile tubular garment worn by the Maranao people. It is used for daily wear, ceremonies, and even as blankets, and comes in intricate geometric designs.
Like Yakan, each of these textiles carries deep cultural significance, representing the artistry and traditions of Filipino indigenous communities.
Filipino textiles in modern fashion
Filipino textiles are making a stunning comeback in modern fashion, blending heritage with contemporary design. Designers are incorporating traditional weaves, such as T’nalak, Inaul, and Piña fabric, into stylish, everyday wear and high-fashion pieces.
Fashion organizers are showcasing indigenous textiles in fashion weeks and global exhibitions. Modern Filipiniana gowns feature handwoven fabrics with updated silhouettes.
T’nalak and Inabel are being used in jackets, dresses, and accessories, making traditional weaves more accessible. Sustainable brands are creating eco-friendly clothing using abaca and banana fibers.
Handwoven textiles are also being used in bags, shoes, and jewelry, adding a cultural touch to everyday fashion. Designers are focusing on ethical sourcing and supporting local weavers. Several Filipino designers are championing local craftsmanship by incorporating indigenous textiles into their creations. Some of the most notable ones are Rajo Laurel, Vania Romoff, Patis Tesoro, Carl Jan Cruz, and Filip + Inna (Len Cabili). They are redefining Filipino fashion by honoring heritage while embracing innovation.
Filipino textiles are influencing international fashion trends by blending heritage with sustainability and innovation. They demonstrate that tradition and innovation can co-exist, making them a powerful force in sustainable and culturally relevant fashion.
