Chef Elvis Robles at work with his wok | Photo by Troi Santos
NEW YORK—At Binondo by Kabisera, Filipino cuisine is presented with reverence and refined discipline. The experience begins long before the food reaches the table. It starts in the open kitchen, where fire, steel, and instinct converge in a quiet ballet of mastery.
There, Executive Chef Elvis Robles commands the wok with the precision of a chef deeply versed in wok cookery and high-heat technique. Using a round-bottomed carbon steel vessel over a roaring commercial burner, he performs the chao technique. This rapid, high-heat stir-fry method demands precise control over thermal gradients and timing.
The first whisper of garlic hitting the pan marks the beginning of an orchestrated sequence. As proteins and vegetables are introduced, Maillard reactions begin to unfold, aromatics blooming, surfaces searing, moisture held at the edge of release. The flames, climbing the sides of the wok in controlled bursts, kiss the ingredients in what professionals refer to as direct flame contact. Each toss arcs the food through heat and motion, coating it evenly in its developing flavor.
The brief, intentional bursts of fire facilitate surface caramelization while preserving interior succulence. Chef Robles expertly manages oil vaporization, oxidation, and pan temperature to produce that elusive culinary hallmark known as wok hei, “the breath of the wok.” The result is food with balanced textures, clarity of flavor, and a lingering aroma that speaks of discipline and skill.
Born in the quiet village of Kinayao in the Philippines, Chef Elvis Robles is the sixth of nine siblings. His culinary journey began at home, where he cooked beside his mother, guided by necessity and memory. He later launched his formal career in Bahrain, where he trained at TGI Fridays, mastering high-volume cooking and international flavor palettes. He earned accolades in cooking competitions, including an award-winning corn soup, and returned to the Philippines to deepen his repertoire in catering and banqueting kitchens.
Eventually, he rose to become Executive Chef at PF Chang’s Bahrain, where his dishes garnered praise from critics and food publications, including TimeOut Bahrain. Today, as the executive chef of Binondo by Kabisera in New York City, he brings with him over 15 years of experience, blending intuitive technique with global discipline to present a contemporary expression of Filipino culinary identity.
At Binondo by Kabisera, his work reflects precision and purpose. One dish arrives with a crisp golden crust that yields to tenderness. Another is glazed to a mirror finish, each bite enveloped in subtle richness. A bowl of pristine broth reveals depth with every sip. Each composition shows restraint, balance, and integrity.
But for Chef Robles, food is not just technique; it’s a way to give back. “I think I’d like to be remembered as an encourager, a positive role model, and a teacher,” he says. “I don’t measure the success of what I do. But when I share my knowledge and someone else feels accomplished, then I consider that a success.”
He pauses, then offers the word that defines his culinary philosophy: respect. “Respect for ingredients, how they should be treated. Respect for technique is necessary to get the proper result. But most importantly, respect for the people you’re cooking for. Whether it’s your family on a Saturday night or a paying guest at the restaurant, what you give returns as your own self-respect.”
The space mirrors his philosophy: warm, understated, and designed to let the food take center stage. The real atmosphere comes from the open kitchen, its rhythmic clatter, the bloom of garlic in oil, and the glow of flame under control.
In the hands of Chef Elvis Robles, the wok is a vessel of storytelling. Through fire and finesse, he crafts food that bridges tradition and the present, with each plate a testament to skill, intention, and cultural depth. At Binondo by Kabisera, excellence is presence.
