Why the U.S. should lift ban on bagoong

Ginisang Alamang (sauteed shrimp paste) | Photo by Obsidian Soul via Wikimedia Commons

Bagoong, a popular fermented fish or shrimp paste, is a staple in Filipino cuisine. It is more than just a condiment; it is a key ingredient in many traditional dishes.

However, the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) recently added bagoong to Import Alert 16-74, which restricts the import of uneviscerated fish due to the risk of botulism, a severe illness caused by the bacterium Clostridium. Improperly processed fish or shrimp paste harbor botulinum toxins, which can be life-threatening. FDA emphasizes the need for proper processing and handling to ensure safety. This has led to a temporary ban on importing this product to the U.S.

Additionally, the U.S. has temporarily banned importing shrimp and shrimp products from the Philippines due to concerns about using Turtle Excluder Devices in commercial fishing. This ban affects nearly a billion pesos worth of shrimp exports to the U.S., significantly impacting the Philippine shrimp industry.

Philippine shrimp paste exporters generally comply with safety standards to ensure the quality and safety of their products. Through the Bureau of Fisheries and Aquatic Resources (BFAR) and the Department of Agriculture, the Philippine government has implemented the Code of Good Aquaculture Practices (GAqP) for shrimp and crab1. This code outlines practices to prevent or minimize risks during aquaculture production, harvesting, and post-harvest handling.

This restriction unfairly targets bagoong, and the ban should be reconsidered for the following reasons:

Bagoong is crucial for the flavor of many Filipino dishes. For example, the peanut-based stew kare-kare is incomplete without the salty kick of bagoong on the side. It also enhances the taste of seafood dishes, like fried catfish and crabs. Filipino cuisine relies heavily on complex, savory flavors; bagoong is central to this.

Bagoong, like other fermented foods, is nutritious. It is rich in omega-3 fatty acids, which promote heart and brain health. Omega-3s help lower blood pressure, reduce inflammation, and support brain function. In places where access to nutritious foods is limited, allowing bagoong imports can provide a familiar and healthy food source to Filipinos and other cuisine fans.

Fermentation has been used worldwide as a method of food preservation, from “sauerkraut” in Germany to “kimchi” in Korea. Bagoong shares this global tradition of fermentation, which enhances its flavor and ensures safety. Unlike all uneviscerated fish products the FDA is concerned about, bagoong is made from small shrimp or fish, often processed into a paste, which lowers the risk of botulism.

Bagoong carries deep cultural significance for Filipinos in the Philippines and abroad. It connects communities through traditional fermentation practices and symbolizes Filipino culinary heritage. Many Southeast Asian countries, including Thailand, Vietnam, and Indonesia, have similar fermented fish pastes, highlighting their regional importance.

The FDA’s concerns about botulism from uneviscerated fish are valid, but properly processed fish or shrimp pastes like bagoong should not be lumped in with higher-risk products. The FDA should focus on specific products linked to past outbreaks, not all fermented seafood items.

The FDA already exempts other fermented fish products like “fish sauce,” acknowledging that proper fermentation is safe. Applying the same logic, bagoong, made from fermented shrimp or fish, should also be exempt from these restrictions.

Bagoong comes in various forms, such as “bagoong alamang” (shrimp paste) and “bagoong guisado” (sautéed bagoong), making it a versatile ingredient. It is widely used in many dishes, showing its importance in Filipino cuisine. The demand for bagoong remains high among Filipinos and food lovers exploring global flavors.

Lifting the ban on bagoong will ensure that a key element of Filipino cuisine remains accessible to Filipinos in the U.S. and other food enthusiasts. It is essential not only for its flavor but also for its nutritional value and cultural significance. The FDA should refine its restrictions to focus on high-risk items while allowing safe products like bagoong.

A balanced approach can maintain public health standards while respecting the cultural importance of foods like bagoong. Food safety and food traditions can—and should—coexist.

–With Jay Domingo/PDM